Being invited to attend a media ‘educational’ in neighbouring Robertson on the strength and reputation of my blog was, at the same time, both flattering and disconcerting. Had they actually read my blog? Did they realise that they were dealing with someone who thrives on turning disaster into humorous anecdote? Feeling somewhat guilty about accepting the irresistible invitation (Wine! Game drives! Delicious food! A night away in Someone Else’s Guesthouse! And more…) I felt bound to admit to my sense of inadequacy which grew stronger after meeting up with the rest of the group, experienced journalists who actually get paid for unleashing their opinions on the world.
Huge and Delicious Breakfast
But the huge and absolutely delicious farmstyle breakfast at the Bodega de Vinho Restaurant at Rooiberg Winery which was the kick off for the adventure made me think twice about jeopardizing my chances by spilling the beans!
It wasn’t long however, as the inevitable developing camaraderie of a group whose hosts’ sole aim was to please took hold, before I blurted out that I was dependent on humorous anecdotes for my blog, and that they would probably have to organise a disaster…….. Somewhat disconcertingly it seemed that this was perfectly fine and they would see what they could do. As I said, their sole aim was to please.
The enormous breakfast had set us up well for the day.. the next item on the agenda was a cultural tour of Robertson by mule and cart. Somewhat anxiously and extremely inelegantly hauling myself into the cart, hampered by jeans which seemed far tighter than first thing this morning, I was reassured by the placid faces of the mules and the enthusiasm of our lovely tour guides. “Welcome to our culinary cultural tour….” Wait, what was that? Culinary? Culinary? “…….where you will be welcomed into the homes of local people who have prepared feasts….” FEASTS? ”….from their culture.
This sort of experience is normally right up my street, I love to try new foods and enjoy learning about traditions, and meeting local people. What a great concept. An added frisson was given by the open cart negotiating the rougher ground as we delved deeper into Nkqubela and the cheery but somewhat bemused faces of the residents as they waved us on our lurching way. The cart was not, to put it mildly, the most comfortable mode of transport, but I was suffering from another discomfort…. worrying about the possibility of offending our gracious hosts by being unable to fit any more food under my very tight belt.
An Amazing Spread
Arriving at our destination, we were welcomed by our hostess Nolu, who, as I had suspected, had prepared enough food to feed the whole neighbourhood. From my adventures with Beauty and the googly thing and her Xhosa banquets, I felt quite proud that I recognized and knew the names of many of the dishes. It was an amazing spread, and she was a delight as she told us something of her history and relationship with food. We were fortunate to have Phumizile from News 24 among our number, one of those skinny guys who can eat forever, who was feeling nostalgic for his Mama’s cooking, so he more than made up for the rest of us who were suffering for our over indulgence at breakfast.
Deep dishes
We clambered back on board to be greeted by the news we going to a different part of the town where we would be introduced to a feast of Cape Malay cookery. (Perhaps I should point out that it was still only 10 a.m) . The mules dragged their increasingly heavy burden wearily up a very steep hill, to a neat house from which emanated some wonderful spicy smells. In the back garden a potjie of enormous proportions. Big smiling faces, then deep dishes were filled to the brim… I think it was pigs’ knuckles, with samp, pap, rice, followed by round doughnutty things, (koesisters) and polystyrene boxes for takeaways. Fabulous. But there was no way on God’s green earth I was going to be able to get myself back on that cart.
Cart before the horse…
When planning this adventure, the two ladies from Tantalizing Tours (who were in every way impressive and wonderful!) had not thought to factor in the risk involved with a couple of mules, a cart full of overfed journalists and a very steep downhill road. Fortunately, this trip was their pilot trip, and one can only learn from experience. I had taken the, as it turned out, prudent, option of continuing my journey in the minibus, which sedately followed the cart and provided me with the opportunity to take a few photos of the moment when the cart with its cargo attempted to overtake the mules.
No-one was hurt
This could, in retrospect, could have ended very tragically, as the intersection at the bottom of the hill was a major road, but fortuitously nothing was in the way as the mules in their desperation to get away from their burden careened across and crashed into a post on the opposite side if the road. Shaken, stirred, but unhurt, all disembarked, comforted the mules, and our journey continued by minibus, one slightly disgruntled voice pointing out that one member of the party had actually asked for disasters to be organized.
No bacon and eggs?
Next stop on our culinary tour ( yes, more food) was the One Love Coffee Shop where we were introduced to Rastafarian food, which is basically vegetables. This was a great place, with that laid back vibe and the Rasta colours – they had created a coffee shop and a little B and B, simple but comfortable and spotlessly clean. (and very cheap). I would definitely consider staying there if it were not for the lack of bacon and eggs….
Bite Size pieces
Our final stop which involved food was The Meerkat Kitchen where we were offered traditional Afrikaans food and bakes with a ” modern twist”. Of all the wonderful food that we had been offered (and mostly been too full to eat) on the tour, I found this extremely appealing, beautifully presented in bite size quantities: a definite place to stop off when visiting Robertson.
This cultural culinary tour is an interesting, unique and special experience, and I really admire the way that Tantalizing Tours has reached out to involve the community in this project. Just don’t eat anything before you go, and make sure that they have re-routed the mule train!
Readers of previous blog entries will know that generally speaking when I get involved in any physical or risky challenges that involve either vehicles or water, it will always have consequences that entail hospital care, rescue workers, broken machinery, scars etc etc. When I looked at the original itinerary for this trip, it seemed to be no more risky than the possibility of too much wine. Husband made me promise not to agree to anything that needed an indemnity form, and I was happy to agree, reasoning that although the local wine farms would probably be wise to hand them out when they see me coming, generally speaking they just pass me a wine list – it makes much better reading. SO… imagine my surprise to discover that the updated itinerary did not suggest a lazy afternoon sampling local wines, as I fondly remembered, but rather a River Rafting adventure.
You can imagine my dilemma. Whilst not averse to breaking promises to Husband, I was more scared by the fact that I was feeling extremely heavy and likely to sink said raft after our morning’s mammoth epicurean experience, and that as I had just narrowly escaped a disaster of the vehicle kind, a water one probably had my name on it. One of the group managed to excuse herself through legitimate claims of pregnancy, but I didn’t think that one would fly at my age. Ah, my age! Let’s try that one….. Nope they weren’t having it. Examples were wheeled out of octogenarians running the rapids – until eventually I was shamed into signing the form (now vaguely worrying that there may not be a life jacket big enough for my somewhat increased girth)
I am an expert
Lady luck was on my side. Whoever was handing out the “things that go wrong today” list was, for once, missing me out. I was lucky enough to have the best rafter available to play backstop (pilot? captain? steerer?) who was the most gentle of gentlemen and kept reassuring me to just let him take the strain while I enjoyed the ride. Which I did, thoroughly enjoying watching Phumizile and his crew getting stuck on every rock, as well as racing scarily and out of control through the “rapids” , finally ending up in the middle of a spiky acacia thorn tree which we had been specifically warned about. But they laughed their way through the whole adventure and had almost as much fun as I did, lying back and enjoying the beautiful river, the stillness, the leaping fish, the birds (I saw an African Fish Eagle, but was too scared to lift my bottom off my camera on which somehow I had ended up sitting, so no photograph, but a wonderful memory). I am so glad that I was persuaded to do it.
Jessica, one of our group, had so far also managed to avoid all disasters, and so it was with a sense of schadenfreude that as we clambered up the bank and ruefully viewed the barbed wire fence which we could ‘climb over’ or ‘crawl under’, I watched Jessica making her choice, and falling off the upturned bucket which tipped as she stood on it to ‘climb over’, throwing her into the fence and leaving her half on and half off, requiring the concerted efforts of the rest of us to push her the rest of the way. I had had my warning and undignified as it was, chose to ‘crawl under’. I am glad there were no photographers around. (As was Jessie!)
Still more to come: we had to check into our guest-house, visit a theatre in McGregor, taste grappa, eat one of the most wonderful meals I have had in South Africa, go on a game drive, and meet Mildred the Goat.
But that is for part 2, coming soon. Hopefully before next Thursday, because, inspired by the experience, I have arranged a media educational for Swellendam. Which will also have its fair share of delicious food…and danger, as our intrepid journalists will be having a full on Bee-Keeping experience: in preparation for Swellendam’s new August festival: The Big Bee
Contacts:
Rooiberg Winery:
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, / 023-626-1663
Tantalizing Tours: Avril Netherton
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, / 082-532-8302
River Rafting: Robertson Backpackers
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/ 023-626-1280
